Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego
Where: Argentina and Chile
Several centuries ago, the only inhabitants of the southern
extremity of South America were the native Yahgan Indians. To survive in
the inhospitable climate of this land, the Yahgans made ample use of
fire. The campfires continuously burning here were so numerous and so
bright that when the first Europeans to explore the region saw them from
the sea, they called the whole place Tierra del Fuego ("Land of Fire").
Today, the name Tierra del Fuego applies to the group of islands that
make up the southern tips of both Argentina and Chile. Isla Grande -- as
its name suggests -- is the largest landmass in the archipelago, with
territories belonging to both those countries.
The word "southernmost" is proudly applied to many attributes of
Isla Grande: It's the southernmost part of the Patagonia region (the
Patagonia ecotourism base town of Punta Arenas is just across the Strait
of Magellan from the island) and claims to have the "southernmost city
in the world" in Ushuaia, Argentina (Puerto Williams in Isla Navarino
contests that claim). Ushuaia, a former penal colony, is the main
embarkation point for ship expeditions to the Southern Ocean sites of
Antarctica , the Falklands , and South Georgia . The principal
attraction of the town itself is the Museo del Fin del Mundo (Maipú 175;
tel.
54/2901/421-863), with interesting exhibits on
the indigenous peoples and nature of Tierra del Fuego and fascinating
navigation artifacts and records. Besides those passengers who spend a
day here en route to the Drake Passage and the Antarctic region, Ushuaia
and Isla Grande don't get much tourism. The 48,000-sq.-km
(18,533-sq.-mile) island's terrain is mostly mountainous, and there are
some oil and natural gas deposits in the northern part of the island.
Not far from Isla Grande, though it's actually a separate small
island in the Tierra del Fuego group, is the real southernmost tip of
South America and one of the most fabled sites in the story of
seafaring: Cape Horn (Cabo de Hornos). Before the opening of the Panama
Canal in 1914, rounding "the Horn" was the only way for ships to get
between the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans, and its hostile waters were
-- and still are -- notorious for the challenges they posed to sailors.
Strong winds and currents, enormous waves, and even icebergs sent many a
seaman to his watery grave.
History
Earliest human settlement occurred more than 10,000 years ago. The
Yaghan people were some of the earliest known humans settling in Tierra
del Fuego, with certain recognizable archeological sites at locations
such as
Navarino Island within the islands of Tierra del Fuego.
The name Tierra del Fuego derives from Portuguese explorer Ferdinand
Magellan, who was the first European to visit these lands in 1520. He
believed he was seeing the many fires (fuego in Spanish) of the
Amerindians, which were visible from the sea and that the "Indians" were
waiting in the forests to ambush his armada. These were fires lit by
the Yamana Indians who lived in the northern part of the island, to ward
off the low temperatures in the area. Originally called the "Land of
Smoke," it was later changed to the more exciting "Land of Fire."
Four native Fuegians, including "Jemmy Button" (Orundellico), were
brought from Tierra del Fuego by Robert Fitzroy on his first voyage with
the HMS Beagle in 1830. They were taken to meet the King and Queen in
London and were to an extent celebrities. The surviving three returned
to Tierra del Fuego with the Beagle with Charles Darwin, who made
extensive notes about his visit to the islands.
In 1881 it was divided between Argentina and Chile, having previously been claimed by both countries in its entirety.
Climate
The climate in this region is very inhospitable. It is a
subpolar oceanic climate
(Köppen climate classification Cfc) with short, cool summers and long,
wet, moderate winters: the northeast is characterized by strong winds
and little precipitation, in the south and west it is very windy, foggy,
and wet for most of the year, and there are very few days without rain,
slush, hail or snow. The permanent snow-line begins at 700 m (2,300 ft)
above sea level. Isla de los Estados, east of Ushuaia, receives of
rain. Rainfall is heavier in the west, a year. Temperatures are steady
throughout the year: in Ushuaia they hardly surpass in summers and
average in winters. Snowfall can occur in summer. The cold and wet
summers help preserve the ancient glaciers. The southernmost islands
possess subantarctic climate typical of tundra that makes the growth of
trees impossible. Some areas in the interior have a polar climate.
Regions in the world with similar climates to southern Tierra del Fuego
are: Aleutian islands, Iceland, Alaska Peninsula and Faroe Islands.
Flora
Only 30% of the islands have forests, which are classified as
Magellanic subpolar; the northeast is made up by steppe and cool
semidesert.
There are six species of tree found in Tierra del Fuego: Canelo or
Winter's Bark (Drimys winteri), Maytenus magellanica, Pilgerodendron
uviferum the southernmost conifer in the world, and three kinds of
Southern Beech; Nothofagus Antarctica, Nothofagus pumilio and the
evergreen Nothofagus betuloides. Very delicious fruits grow in open
spaces in these forests, such as beach strawberry (Fragaria chiloensis
var. chiloensis forma chiloensis) and calafate (Berberis buxifolia),
which were and are collected respectively by Indians and countrymen.
These forests are unique in the world for having developed in a climate
with such cold summers. Tree cover extends very close to the
southernmost tip of South America. Winds are so strong that trees in
wind-exposed areas grow twisted by the force of winds, and people call
the trees "flag-trees" for the shape that they need to take in the fight
with the wind. Tree vegetation extends as far south as the Isla de los
Estados, Navarino Island and the north of Hoste Island. At altitudes
above, dwarf nothofagus communities are found. Going further south,
Wollaston Islands and the south of Hoste Island are covered by
subantarctic tundra.
Forests from Tierra del Fuego have expanded beyond local importance;
they have been a source of trees that have been planted abroad in places
with practically the same climate but which were originally devoid of
trees like Faroe Islands and nearby archipelagos. Most species were
gathered from the coldest places in Tierra del Fuego, sites mainly with
tundra borders. This effort resulted in positive changes, as the heavy
winds and cool summers in the Faroe Islands did not allow the growth of
trees from other regions in the world. The imported trees are used
ornamentally, as curtains against wind, and for fighting erosion caused
by storms and grazing in the Faroe Islands.
Economy
The main industries are oil, natural gas, sheep farming and
ecotourism. On the Argentine side there are several electronic companies
established. Tierra del Fuego is also home to the small brewing company
Cervecería Fueguina, which produces three beers under the Beagle brand
name.
